A dripping kitchen faucet can waste water, stain the sink, and make an otherwise quiet room surprisingly annoying. The good news is that many faucet leaks come from a worn washer, cartridge, or O-ring—parts you can often replace with basic tools. The key is finding where the water is escaping before you take anything apart.
Table of Contents
First, Find Where the Faucet Is Leaking
Watch the faucet for a minute with the water turned on, then turn it off and check again. A leak from the spout after you shut off the handle usually points to a worn internal seal. Water around the handle or faucet base can come from a damaged O-ring, a loose connection, or water running down from somewhere else.
Also look under the sink while the faucet is running. A drip from a supply connection or hose is a different repair from a drip out of the spout. Dry the area with a towel first, then run the faucet and check which part gets wet first. That simple check can save you from replacing the wrong piece.
| Where you see the leak | Possible cause | Likely next step |
|---|---|---|
| Spout drips when faucet is off | Worn cartridge, washer, or internal seal | Identify the faucet type and inspect its seals or cartridge |
| Water comes out around the handle | Worn O-ring, cartridge seal, or loose retaining nut | Remove the handle and inspect the parts beneath it |
| Water pools around the faucet base | Leaking seal, loose faucet, or splash running down from the spout | Dry the area and trace where water appears first |
| Water drips beneath the sink | Loose or damaged supply line, shutoff valve, or connection | Check each connection while the faucet is running |
What You’ll Need
Most basic faucet repairs need only a few tools. Gather them before you shut off the water, since a small screw or clip is much easier to handle when you’re not scrambling around under the sink.
- Adjustable wrench or the correct-size spanner
- Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers, or a hex key
- Replacement cartridge, washer, O-ring, or seal that matches your faucet
- Small container or towel to catch drips
- Plumber’s silicone grease, if recommended for the replacement seals
- Phone camera, useful for recording the order and direction of parts
Faucet parts aren’t universal. Two faucets that look almost identical may use different cartridges, so check the brand and model if you can. If you can’t find the model, take the old part to a plumbing supply store or compare it carefully with the manufacturer’s parts information.
Turn Off the Water Before You Take the Faucet Apart
Look under the sink for two shutoff valves, usually one for hot water and one for cold. Turn both clockwise until closed. Some newer valves use a small lever instead; the lever is generally closed when it sits across the pipe, but check the valve’s markings if you’re unsure.
Don’t force a valve that’s stuck, badly corroded, or leaking around its stem. Forcing it can turn a small faucet repair into a larger plumbing problem. If the local valves won’t close, or there are no usable shutoffs, stop and get help with safely shutting off the water supply.
Once the valves are closed, open the faucet to release pressure and drain the water left in the line. Plug the sink drain or cover it with a cloth. Faucet screws, clips, and tiny washers have a talent for disappearing down the drain.
Identify Your Faucet Type
The repair depends on what’s inside the faucet. Many modern kitchen faucets use a cartridge, while older or less common designs may use compression washers, a ball assembly, or ceramic discs. If you have the faucet’s manual, use it: the manual can show how the handle comes off and which replacement parts fit.
Cartridge faucet
A cartridge faucet typically has one or two handles that move to control water flow and temperature. If water drips from the spout after the handle is closed, a worn cartridge or its seals may be the cause. The cartridge often comes out as one unit, but its shape and retaining method vary by model.
Compression faucet
Compression faucets usually have separate hot and cold handles that turn several times. Turning a handle presses a washer against a valve seat to stop the water. With repeated use, the washer can wear down, and the faucet may begin to drip. Replacing the worn washer is a common repair, though a damaged valve seat can also keep a new washer from sealing properly.
Ball or ceramic-disc faucet
Ball faucets use a moving ball and a set of springs and seals. Ceramic-disc faucets use smooth discs that move to regulate water. Both can develop leaks when internal parts wear or become damaged, but taking them apart is different from replacing a simple washer. Use a repair kit made for the exact faucet model, and follow its instructions for part placement.
How to Replace a Leaking Faucet Cartridge
These steps describe the general process for many cartridge faucets. Your faucet may use a different cover, clip, nut, or handle screw, so treat the manufacturer’s instructions as the guide for your model.
- Remove the handle. Look for a small screw beneath a decorative cap, at the back of the handle, or on its side. Gently pry off a cap if there is one, then loosen the screw with the right tool. Avoid twisting hard against the faucet body, which can scratch the finish or damage the handle.
- Remove the retaining parts. Depending on the design, there may be a collar, nut, or small clip holding the cartridge in place. Take a photo before removing anything and set each piece in order. If a clip is present, lift it out carefully rather than bending it.
- Pull out the cartridge. Lift it straight out where possible. If it’s stuck, check the faucet instructions for the right way to release it; excessive force can damage the faucet body. Note which side faces forward and how the hot and cold openings are positioned.
- Fit the replacement. Compare the old and new cartridges before installing the new one. Align its tabs and openings as directed. A cartridge turned the wrong way may cause reversed hot and cold controls or prevent the faucet from working properly.
- Reassemble the faucet. Put the retaining clip or nut back in its original position, then reinstall the handle. Tighten screws and nuts firmly, but don’t overtighten them. Plastic pieces and small threads can crack or strip.
If the faucet still drips after a correctly installed cartridge, don’t keep tightening the handle. Check that the replacement is the right model and seated properly. The faucet body or another internal seal may also be worn, which can call for a different part or a full faucet replacement.
How to Replace a Worn Washer or O-Ring
If your faucet uses compression valves, the leaking side is often the place to start. When the faucet drips, turn off both supply valves, remove the handle, and take apart the valve stem according to the faucet’s instructions. The washer is usually held by a small screw at the end of the stem.
Take the old washer with you when buying a replacement, or compare its size and thickness carefully. A washer that’s too large, too small, or made for a different fitting may not seal. Check the valve seat as well. If it’s rough, cracked, or visibly damaged, a new washer may not solve the leak for long.
O-rings are small rubber rings that seal moving or joining parts. If water appears around the handle or faucet base, a worn O-ring may be responsible. Replace it with the same size and type. A light coating of plumber’s silicone grease can help a new O-ring slide into place when the faucet maker recommends it; avoid using ordinary oil or petroleum jelly, which may damage some rubber seals.
What If the Leak Is Under the Sink?
First, work out exactly where the water starts. A leak may come from a loose supply-line connection, a damaged hose, or a shutoff valve—not the faucet’s internal mechanism. Dry the pipes and fittings, run the faucet, and use a piece of dry paper towel to check each joint. The first damp spot can point to the source.
If a threaded connection is slightly loose, you may be able to tighten it carefully with a wrench while holding the other part steady. Don’t use force, and don’t assume every fitting needs thread tape. Many faucet supply connections seal with a washer or gasket, not with tape on the threads.
If water is coming from a cracked hose, a corroded valve, or a connection that keeps leaking after gentle tightening, replace the faulty part or call a plumber. Don’t patch a pressurized water line with household glue or tape. A temporary-looking leak can worsen once water pressure returns.
Test the Faucet and Check Your Work
When everything is back together, make sure the faucet handle is off. Slowly open the hot and cold shutoff valves, watching underneath the sink as water pressure returns. If you spot a drip, close the valves again and check the connection or part you just worked on.
Run hot and cold water for a short time, then turn the faucet off and wait a few minutes. Look for drips from the spout, water around the handle, and moisture under the sink. Also check that the handle moves normally and that hot and cold water come from the correct sides.
Common Repair Mistakes to Avoid
- Replacing parts before finding the leak. Water can run along the faucet or sink before it drips, making the visible spot misleading. Trace the water back to its first wet point.
- Buying a part based only on appearance. Similar-looking cartridges and washers may not fit. Match the model or compare the old part closely.
- Forcing stuck components. A stuck handle or cartridge may need a model-specific removal method. Too much force can damage the faucet or connected plumbing.
- Overtightening fittings. Tightening harder isn’t always safer. It can strip threads, crush washers, or crack plastic pieces.
- Ignoring an under-sink leak. Even a slow drip can damage cabinets over time. Check the supply lines and valves as well as the faucet itself.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my kitchen faucet drip after I turn it off?
A few drops immediately after shutoff may be leftover water draining from the spout. If it keeps dripping, a worn cartridge, washer, or internal seal is a more likely cause. Watch it for a few minutes to tell the difference.
Can I repair a leaking kitchen faucet without replacing the whole faucet?
Often, yes. Replacing a cartridge, washer, or O-ring can fix many leaks. A full replacement may make more sense if the faucet body is damaged, compatible parts are unavailable, or several parts are failing.
Do I need to shut off both hot and cold water?
For most repairs, shut off both valves under the sink. This helps prevent water from flowing through the faucet while you work and avoids confusion about which supply line is still pressurized.
Why is my faucet still leaking after I replaced the cartridge?
The cartridge may be the wrong model, installed in the wrong position, or not seated correctly. A damaged faucet body or another worn seal can also cause continued leaking. Turn off the water and recheck the model and installation instructions before trying to tighten parts further.
Conclusion
To repair a leaking kitchen faucet, start by tracing the water to its source, then shut off the supply before taking the faucet apart. The right fix may be a cartridge, washer, or O-ring, but matching the part to your faucet is essential. Work gently, check for leaks under the sink, and test the faucet slowly when you’re done. If a valve is stuck or a pipe connection keeps leaking, calling a plumber is the safer choice.
