A bathroom faucet that drips all night can waste water, leave ugly mineral stains, and turn a quick morning wash into an annoying cleanup. The good news? Many faucet leaks come from a small, worn part you can replace at home. The key is to find where the water is escaping first: a drip from the spout points to a different repair than water pooling under the sink.
These 10 DIY fixes cover common faucet designs and leak locations. You won’t need every fix for every faucet, and the right replacement part depends on your model. Take your time, shut off the water before opening anything, and stop if you find a cracked faucet body or badly corroded plumbing.
Table of Contents
Find the source of the bathroom faucet leak
Dry the faucet and the area beneath the sink, then turn the water on and watch closely. If needed, run the faucet for a minute, turn it off, and check again. A leak that appears only while water is flowing may come from a connection or seal; a drip that continues with the faucet off often points to a worn valve part.
| Where you see water | Common cause | Fixes to consider |
|---|---|---|
| Dripping from the spout when turned off | Worn cartridge, washer, or valve seal | Replace the cartridge, washer, or inlet seals |
| Water around the handle | Loose retaining nut, worn O-ring, or packing seal | Tighten the nut or replace the relevant seal |
| Water around the spout’s base | Worn spout O-rings or water escaping from higher up | Inspect and replace the spout O-rings |
| Water under the sink | Loose or damaged supply connection, hose, or faucet mounting area | Check the supply fittings and hose; trace water to its source |
| Water seems to spray or run onto the counter | Clogged or misdirected aerator, or water splashed during use | Clean and reinstall the aerator; check whether the faucet itself is leaking |
Before you take the faucet apart, look for the brand and model number. It may be printed on the faucet, listed in your paperwork, or searchable using a photo of the fixture. Faucets that look alike can use different cartridges and seals, so matching the part to the model is much safer than guessing.
Get ready to make the repair
Clear out the cabinet and find the hot and cold shutoff valves under the sink. Turn both clockwise to close them, then open the faucet to release pressure and confirm the water is off. If a shutoff valve won’t turn, leaks when you move it, or fails to stop the water, don’t force it. You may need to shut off the home’s main water supply or call a plumber.
Keep a towel and a small bowl nearby. Put the sink stopper in place or cover the drain, so a tiny screw doesn’t disappear down the plumbing. Depending on your faucet, you may need an adjustable wrench, screwdriver, hex key, pliers, and replacement parts. Use a cloth between pliers and a finished faucet surface to reduce the risk of scratches.
10 DIY fixes for a leaking bathroom faucet
1. Tighten a loose handle screw
A loose handle doesn’t always cause a leak, but it can stop the faucet from closing fully or put extra strain on its internal parts. If the handle wobbles, find its screw. It may be visible on the side or back, or hidden beneath a small decorative cap. Remove the cap carefully, then snug the screw with the right screwdriver or hex key.
Don’t crank it down. Over-tightening can damage the screw, handle, or stem. Turn the water back on and test the faucet. If the handle is secure but water still drips, the problem is probably a worn valve part rather than the screw.
2. Gently tighten the handle’s retaining nut
Some faucets have a retaining or bonnet nut beneath the handle that holds the valve assembly in place. If it has loosened, water may seep around the handle when the faucet is running. With the water shut off, remove the handle and look for a large nut around the valve stem.
Use a suitable wrench to tighten it a small amount, then test the faucet. This is a “snug, then check” repair: too much force can make the handle stiff or damage the valve. If tightening doesn’t stop the leak, don’t keep turning. A worn cartridge or seal may be the real cause.
3. Replace a worn handle packing seal or O-ring
If water appears around the handle, a small rubber O-ring or packing seal around the stem may have worn out. These seals stop water from escaping as the handle moves. Over time, rubber can flatten, crack, or become brittle, especially in a faucet that gets daily use.
Shut off the water, remove the handle, and lift out the stem or valve assembly according to the faucet design. Look for a damaged ring or packing material, and take the old part to a hardware store if you’re unsure about its size. Fit the exact replacement in the same position. A thin coat of plumber-approved silicone grease can help an O-ring slide into place, but don’t use petroleum grease unless the manufacturer says it’s suitable.
4. Replace the cartridge in a cartridge faucet
A faucet that drips from the spout after you turn it off often has a worn cartridge. The cartridge controls water flow and, in many single-handle faucets, temperature. A tiny damaged seal inside it can let water pass even when the handle is closed.
After shutting off the water, remove the handle and any retaining clip or nut that holds the cartridge. Note the cartridge’s position before pulling it out; some models need to be aligned in a particular direction. Install the replacement made for your faucet model, then reassemble the handle. Don’t pry hard against the faucet body. If the cartridge is stuck, check the manufacturer’s instructions for removal instead of forcing it and damaging the fixture.
5. Replace a worn washer in a compression faucet
Older compression faucets usually have separate hot and cold handles. Turning a handle presses a rubber washer against a valve seat to stop the water. When that washer wears down, water can sneak past it and drip from the spout. A drip that changes when you turn one handle may help identify which side needs attention.
With the water shut off, remove the handle and valve stem. The washer is commonly held at the end of the stem by a small screw. Replace it with one that matches the original in shape and size, then check the valve seat for damage. A new washer may not seal against a deeply scored or corroded seat, so don’t assume the washer alone will solve every compression-faucet drip.
6. Clean or replace damaged seals in a ceramic-disc faucet
Ceramic-disc faucets use smooth, hard discs to control water. They’re durable, but grit or mineral deposits can interfere with the seal, and rubber inlet seals can wear out. If your faucet uses this design, check the manufacturer’s repair instructions before taking it apart; ceramic cartridges and disc assemblies differ between models.
Once the water is off and the assembly is removed, inspect it for debris, cracked parts, or flattened seals. Rinse loose grit from the parts and replace damaged seals with the correct kit. Avoid scraping or dropping ceramic components, which can chip. If the disc assembly itself is cracked or the leak remains after the seals are replaced, installing the correct replacement cartridge may be the better fix.
7. Replace worn O-rings at the base of the spout
Water pooling around the base of a swivel spout often comes from worn O-rings beneath the spout, not from a bad seal around the countertop. The rings keep water inside the faucet as the spout turns. When they flatten or split, water can escape and run onto the sink deck.
Turn off the water and remove the spout as your faucet’s instructions describe. Take note of the order and position of any clips or washers. Replace the O-rings with the right size and lightly coat them with faucet-safe silicone grease if recommended. Reinstall the spout gently; twisting or stretching a new ring too far can damage it before you even test the repair.
8. Tighten a leaking supply-line connection
If you find water under the sink, dry the area and watch the connection while someone briefly runs the faucet. A leak that forms at the point where a supply line meets the faucet or shutoff valve may be a loose fitting. Tighten the connection gently with the appropriate wrench, holding the other fitting steady where needed.
Don’t wrap plumber’s tape around every connection. Many faucet supply fittings seal with a washer inside the nut, and tape can stop the fitting from seating correctly. If a connection keeps leaking after it’s snug, check for a damaged washer, cross-threading, or a worn valve. A fitting that is badly corroded may need more than tightening.
9. Replace a cracked or worn faucet supply hose
A braided supply hose can wear out, kink, or develop a leak near one of its ends. If water appears along the length of the hose or at a damaged section, tightening the fittings won’t fix it. Replace the entire hose with one of the correct length and connection type.
Shut off the water and place a bowl beneath the connection before removing the hose. Match the new hose to the old one and follow the faucet or hose maker’s instructions. Avoid twisting the hose as you tighten it, and check that it isn’t sharply bent when the cabinet is closed. After installation, open the shutoffs slowly and inspect both ends for drips.
10. Clean and reinstall a clogged aerator
A clogged aerator can make water spray sideways or splash onto the countertop, which can look like a faucet leak. It usually won’t cause a steady drip from a closed faucet, so check carefully before treating it as the cause. If the counter gets wet only while the faucet is running, a blocked aerator is worth checking.
Unscrew the aerator at the end of the spout, keeping track of the small screen and any washers. Rinse away grit and soak mineral buildup in white vinegar, then rinse the parts well and reinstall them. If the aerator is cracked or badly corroded, replace it with a matching one. Turn the faucet on gently to check that the stream is even and no water is escaping around the spout tip.
When a DIY repair isn’t the right move
Pause and get professional help if the shutoff valves won’t close, a pipe or faucet body is cracked, a fitting is severely corroded, or water continues to leak after you’ve replaced the correct part. A faucet can also leak because of a problem inside the wall or at a connection you can’t safely reach. If water is spreading into the vanity or floor, shut off the supply and deal with the source promptly to limit damage.
After any repair, open the shutoff valves slowly. Run both hot and cold water, move the handle through its range, then dry the fittings and check again after several minutes. A final check later that day can catch a slow seep that wasn’t obvious right away.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my bathroom faucet drip when it’s turned off?
A drip from the spout usually means water is getting past a valve seal. Depending on the faucet, the cause may be a worn cartridge, washer, or inlet seal. Identify the faucet type and match the replacement part to its model.
Can I stop a faucet leak by tightening it?
Sometimes. A loose handle screw or retaining nut may contribute to a leak, but tightening won’t repair a cracked part or worn seal. Tighten gently, test the faucet, and stop if the handle becomes stiff or the leak continues.
Should I use plumber’s tape on a leaking faucet connection?
Only when the connection is designed to seal with threaded tape and the manufacturer recommends it. Many faucet supply fittings seal with an internal washer instead. Adding tape to those fittings may prevent the washer from seating properly.
How do I know which replacement cartridge to buy?
Look up the faucet’s brand and model, then check the manufacturer’s parts list. If you can’t identify it, take the old cartridge to a plumbing supply store for comparison. Similar-looking cartridges aren’t always interchangeable.
Is water around the faucet base always a bad base seal?
No. Water at the spout’s base can come from worn spout O-rings, while water that runs down from the handle may collect there too. Dry the faucet and watch where the water first appears before choosing a repair.
Conclusion
The most reliable DIY fix starts with locating the leak, not taking the faucet apart at random. A spout drip often needs a valve seal or cartridge, water around a moving spout may point to O-rings, and a puddle under the sink calls for a careful check of the supply fittings and hose. Shut off the water, use parts made for your faucet, and test every connection after the repair. Those small steps can save you time, prevent a second leak, and help you know when it’s time to call a plumber.
